Upon a Sleepless Isle by Andrew Fidel Fernando

I had ordered this book with the expectation of reading a fun read about Sri Lanka and because i had liked the cover of the book (this i would say is the case more often than not with me). I had in my mind to visit Sri Lanka in the near future, and i thought this book would give me some perspective or context about the island.

The book did end up doing that to some extent. Specifically i got to know about the Muslim community and their role in the islands trade history, so much so that the Sinhalese name for Muslims is derived from Sihalese for 'boat owner'. And how unfortunately, just like in India, they have been a target of religous hatred arising from ignorance and indifference. I realised the special place Kandy has in the revolt against the British colonialism by the islanders, apart from being a beautiful town tucked away in the hills. I got to know about the different landscapes in Sri Lanka, and how the mountain dwellers look down about the coast dwellers living in crowded but economically prosperous cities. I realised that the popular tourist circuit that i had discovered for Sri Lanka mostly covered either the palaces of the past Kings who ruled the island (or parts of it) or Buddhist temples and monastries. Speaking of Kings, it seems the past Kings picked up many lake building projects - which resulted in jungles blooming around these lakes - and some of these lakes are still being discovered.

Kandy, Sri Lanka

I also did not realise the intensity and brutality of the civil war that englufed the island. A war that was fought apparently on the liguistic borders between Tamil and Sinhalese people, but which had many other layers underneath the lingustic flavour. To me the narrative seemed familiar, as it most often is - natives suspicious of the imigrants and the immigrants trying to earn a living with dignity. But like i said, the problem was much more layered and complex, and it wouldnt be fair for me to pretend to understand it fully when i dont.

Inspite of these tasteful Sri Lankan flavours comig up in bits, more of the book i thought lacked the flavour or a clear direction. Throughout the book, i did not realise what the author was trying to achieve or get at through this journey - something which came across sharply in Sahara, if i had to compare. Without a specific thesis or a narrative, a travellogue seems more like a travel diary constituting of haphazard incidents, which is fine as a document of travel memories but makes for a poor book. And many of the experiences did seem like a tourist diary - author taking a jungle safari to see some elephants or failing at fishing on a day journey on a boat.

Some books which lack on narrative make up for it with delicious language. some sentences just grip you like a hook and make you re-read them again and again. This book failed on that front as well for me. The language was pretty bland, and some of the sentences just seemed incorrectly articulated. Motorcycle Diaries is an example of a book with beautiful language, apart from having a crisp and clear narrative. But that might be too lofy and ambitious a comparison.

I look forward to visiting Sri Lanka in the recent future. Taking notes from this book, i will want to visit Kandy and explore the less traveller eastern coast of the island, especially Triconmalle. And spend more than a day at Nuvara Elliya to take in the laid back nature of this 'hill station'. But before i go, i wish to read a more nuanced and detailed book about Sri Lanka.